The love of…

Mark Mathews is an Australian big wave surfer who has a deep and abiding love for the sport of surfing. This love for surfing has driven him to push himself to the limits of what is possible in the water and has brought him to the forefront of the surfing world.

Mathews was introduced to surfing at a young age and was immediately hooked. He grew up on the northern beaches of Sydney, Australia, and spent his childhood surfing the waves that rolled in on the local beaches. As he grew older, his passion for surfing only intensified, and he began to seek out bigger and more challenging waves.

Mathews’ love of surfing is driven by the thrill of the ride. There is nothing quite like the feeling of being propelled forward by the power of a wave and riding that wave all the way to the shore. But for Mathews, this thrill was not enough. He wanted more. He wanted to surf bigger waves, waves that most people would consider impossible to ride.

This desire to push himself to the limit led Mathews to become a big wave surfer. Big wave surfing is a sport that involves riding waves that are over 20 feet tall. These waves are incredibly powerful and can be deadly if not approached with caution and skill. But for Mathews, the challenge of riding these waves was irresistible.

Mathews has described the feeling of riding a big wave as “a combination of fear and excitement.” The fear comes from the knowledge that the wave could easily overpower him and the excitement comes from the knowledge that he is doing something that most people would consider impossible. This combination of fear and excitement is what drives Mathews to continue surfing bigger and bigger waves.

In addition to the thrill of the ride, Mathews also loves surfing because of the community that surrounds it. Surfing is a sport that is deeply rooted in a sense of community and camaraderie. Surfers often gather together on the beach to watch each other surf and to offer support and encouragement. This sense of community is what drew Mathews to surfing in the first place and it continues to be a driving force in his love of the sport.

Mathews is also deeply passionate about the environment and the ocean. As a surfer, he has a deep connection to the ocean and has seen firsthand the impact that pollution and climate change can have on the health of the ocean. He is committed to raising awareness about these issues and has worked to promote environmental causes through his surfing.

Mathews’ love of surfing has taken him all over the world, from the cold waters of Alaska to the warm tropical waves of Fiji. He has surfed some of the biggest and most challenging waves in the world and has earned a reputation as one of the best big wave surfers in the world. But for Mathews, surfing is not just about winning competitions or setting records. It is about the love of the sport and the sense of connection to something greater than oneself.

In conclusion, Mark Mathews’ love of surfing is driven by his passion for the thrill of the ride, the sense of community that surrounds the sport, and his deep connection to the ocean and the environment. His dedication to the sport and his commitment to promoting environmental causes through his surfing have made him a role model for surfers around the world. As he continues to push himself to the limits of what is possible in the water, he remains a true testament to the power of passion and love for the sport of surfing.